By Brian Jill
Despite all our reservations and an apoplectic bank account, it was time to get things going. So we pointed the rig south and made a run for the border. We stopped at a surf shop in Ojai, California for some supplies, and had a somewhat dubious conversation with the owner that went like this:
Surf Shop Owner: “You guys are rigged out. Where ya heading?”
US: “Mexico. Baja or bust man.”
Surf Shop Owner: “What’s the matter, you got a problem with being robbed at gunpoint by Americans?”
US: “Huh.”
Surf Shop Owner: Yeah, I had a couple of buds that just got back from a month-long surf trip to Baja, only they came back after five days. Came in from a cool four foot glass at a remote break to learn that banditos like MiniVans. Pulled guns on them, made them stick Cheetos in their nostrils and dance like chickens while they video’d it for Youtube.”
US: “Um, what about their stuff?”
Surf Shop Owner: “Oh, everyone in town now has surfing T-shirts and board shorts. They were pissed that neither of them wore underwear. I guess there’s a demand for that in Mexico. Took their boards too. The one guy, Brian, he had a sweet 9’ 4” Bing noserider squaretail that…”
US: Dood, what happened to the guys?”
Surf Shop Owner: “Oh, they left them there with flipflops, board shorts and Cheeto nose. Keep your eyes open for a white Dodge MiniVan with an “Enjoy Surfing, A Healthy Habit” bumper sticker on the back.”
Later that afternoon, Jay ran into a former Mexican policeman that stuck us with the “Loco Gringos” label and said he hadn’t made a trip back to his home in Mexico for some time because of the random violence and even randomer killing. That’s when Thad picked up a permanent stutter and we all felt a little sick to our stomachs knowing we were crossing the border at first light.
Fortunately, we weren’t flying blind. We were armed to the teeth with a wooden dowel, a spear gun, two Hawaiian slings, two canisters of bear mace, four canisters of wasp spray with a reach of 27 feet, and an array of folding pocket knifes and bottle openers.
That night we set up base camp in a San Diego Wal-Mart parking lot. Thad threw out his sleeping bag in the truck canopy, Brian and Chris went upstairs to the Gheenoe suite and Jay reclined in the drivers seat.
After 10 minutes of shuteye, Barney Fife and his one bullet security team was on us. Apparently, any time there’s a truck pulling a trailer with two Gheenoes on top parked in the lot, there’s someone sleeping in the Gheenoe, or so Barney alluded as he pointed out the “no camping in the parking lot” city/Wal-Mart ordinance.
Unfortunately for us, Barney was up for the Rent-A-Cop of the Year award and wasn’t going to let the fishhead Loco Gringos affect his status. From there, the night was such a blur that I can’t really remember where we ended up sleeping, but I had the imprint of a waffle on my face when I woke up.
The next morning, well-stressed and red-eyed, we gathered to discuss our border crossing options. We could cross at Tijuana if we didn’t mind playing bumper car in the traffic congestion. Then again, recent newspaper headlines pointed to major cartel activity in Tijuana. Jay was quick to point to the “Enjoy Surfing, A Healthy Habit” bumper sticker that someone from the surf shop in Ojai secretly stuck to the back bumper.
Not knowing if that was a code sign for Banditos-R-Us we removed the sticker and headed inland for the Tecate border crossing thinking it’d be faster and there might be a fresh batch of the local beer available. We crossed the border without incident and were relieved to get our journey started and put some miles behind us. We were immediately stopped by Mexican Border Patrol.
I’m sure all of you know that it’s illegal to bring drums of fuel across the border, apparently because when you live in an impoverished area, you’re more likely to buy expensive fuel than cheap fuel. The four 55 gallon drums of vegetable oil in the back of the trailer raised suspicion.
We’d thought of just about everything when planning out the trip: the course; supplies; rations; water; fuel; spare parts; boats; dive gear even toiletries, but for some reason, no one thought about the language barrier. Needless to say, our Spanish speaking skills were near obsolete, so we had to communicate through the time-tested art of hand signals and Charades. It took no time for us to convey that we were simply Loco Gringos looking for the nearest Banditos-R-Us.
Tensions were at an extreme knowing that if they didn’t let us through at this point we we were screwed, glued and tattooed with no trip, no footage, no fishing and a dozen sponsors looking for the return for their investments. Several of the sponsors had complaint divisions worked by Moose and Rocko, who would help you find your checkbook and return the sponsorship money.
At first the Border Patrol denied us passage citing the “No mobile fuel bombs” Tecate City ordinance. Not wanting to give in, we attempted to explain to them the veg conversion and why we were transporting 300-plus gallons of veg on the trailer. That confused them. Were we planning to open a Tacoria?
It was time to get mime-like with our game of Charades, so we ripped two dozen Pelican cases and bags out of the truck and onto the streets of Tecate, and had the Border Patrol stick their head inside the canopy to investigate the veg system. That really confused them. Where was the deep fryer? How can you open a Tacoria without a deep fryer?
It was time for drastic measures. Jay took a lighter to the veg and showed them that it would not ignite and then Chris stuck his finger in the oil and tasted it. They all agreed that Loco Gringos was an appropriate label that should be included in all our official paperwork so as not to confuse any other Mexican officials into thinking we were normal tourists. But it finally got us a response.
Immediately, senior border officials filed out of their offices in their buttoned up suits and ties. They stuck a paint stick into the barrels, only to have dirty veg oil blow off the stick all over their nice shirts and pants. They were disgusted, confused, and pissed at their officers, and they let us pass.
We immediately stopped at the first Tacoria and filled the coolers with tallboy Tecate beer and headed south. Viva La Mexico!
The Road of Death
It’s not until you visit another country and drive on their roads that you realize the value of shoulders and that a pothole is less than a minor inconvenience. The roads through Baja were at best crappy, and more often than not, super sketchy…
At one point we were traveling down a long section of highway dubbed the “Road of Death,” due to the fact that if your tire crossed over the white line your vehicle would summersault off a cliff into the desert. The Road of Death was a cemetery for tossed cars, semi’s, busses and other white line crossers. Apparently, Driver’s Ed isn’t mandatory your junior year in Baja High.
Most of the time, we drove each day until nightfall, or until the truck had a mechanical failure and we worked into the night to fix it before the mobile bandito show could arrive.
We tried to sleep by the ocean most nights, but sometimes ended up camping in neighborhoods and city parks. Jay’s prize purchase at the Wal-Mart in San Diego was a camouflage Snuggie that we wore each night.
Brian and Chris would spend every opportunity they could spear fishing for dinner. We ate snapper cooked 30 different ways.
We had our wasp spray locked and loaded, but no one, not even the surf shop owner mentioned anything about spiders. Black widows were thick at almost every spot we camped throughout Baja, so we slept with cotton in our ears and our mouths closed in case one of the spiders wanted to make a new nest.
This is a good time to mention the quality of our map, GPS and planned route. All along Baja there were pull-offs and dirt roads, many leading to rocking remote beach locations where the fish were plentiful and the camping scenic. Many others were simply roads to nowhere that ended up at a cactus plantation. Accessing our camping areas at night was a serious pain in the ass, and required us to continually back up down long one-way roads with a trailer at night to find another route.
We spent the evenings blogging and logging footage from the previous day and building shrines out of empty Tecate bottles. One mention, Big Ups for the Baja Atlas we purchased before crossing the border. It saved our asses and I would highly recommend it.




























