Highlands County
February 21, 2012
Since embarking on this expedition on the southern tip of the Florida peninsula we’ve kayaked, biked, hiked, waded and meandered our way up through the middle of the state, side-stepping our way west of Lake Okeechobee up to Highlands County, in south central Florida.
After leaving the Caloosahatchee River ten days ago, we’ve cut our path across properties with existing conservation easements, and it’s good to know the land owners have this commitment to the natural environment. From the protection of water in the Fisheating Creek watershed to habitat mitigation banks for the gopher tortoise, these often voluntary agreements between a private land owner and a government agency are designed to conserve open space, water recharge areas, environmentally sensitive lands, wildlife habitat or historic features on a specific parcel of land, essentially offsetting the environmental impacts of development. In short, they are small parcels of often undevelopable land that when combined create a massive niche for nature.
Our trek through the opportunity area for the Babcock to Fisheating Creek corridor was not easy as we humped our backpacks down old firebreaks that were more ankle-trap than dirt road. It’s been unseasonably hot for February, even in Florida, with temperatures hinging in the 80s every day and most of the group reeking of bug spray and BO.
We spent the better part of a day in Glades County doing our imitation of trail foraging which is how I know where the term “bushwhacked” originated and ultimately found our way east from Babcock Ranch through intact habitat all the way to south Highlands County. Multiple black bears that the University of Kentucky (myself included) tracked with GPS collars during a five year period made this same trek, making long movements west before ultimately turning around and heading back to Glades and Highlands Counties. We’ve seen no bears so far, unless you count Elam, who while sleeping does a pretty good Yogi imitation.
As we entered bear project stomping grounds at the Smoak Ranch near Venus, I realized that with the exception of a short stroll through Palmdale, I have been walking on conservation land for three days, yet still see nothing but trees on the horizon. Despite the years I’ve spent studying this landscape, until I physically trudged my way over it, I did not fully appreciate the volume of these connections to nature that remain intact. Certainly more can be done to ensure viable corridors for large animals exist in perpetuity, but what we experienced suggested that the habitat in Charlotte, Glades and south Highlands County is still suitable for traveling wildlife.
The gathered bear data from Highlands County supports this belief. Through cooperative efforts between ranchers and agencies this part of the Florida Wildlife Corridor stands a good chance of remaining in existence, which equates to the wildlife remaining true to their habitats and instincts as natural members of the Florida landscape.
My appreciation for the role of the private landowner in conservation began to take shape after coming to know one family in particular, onto whose land we finally crossed at midday Saturday. The Smoak family helped get the bear project started, through a relationship the family had with my former boss, Dave Maehr. Dave was an outspoken proponent of the idea that private landowners were key to the conservation of the Florida panther.
As we walked across the Smoak cattle pasture I stepped over the entrance to the home of a burrowing owl, a tiny, long-legged owl that owns the local lizard, frog and insect population. Along the way we found the remains of two unfortunate June beetles, skewered on the barbed wire fence by loggerhead shrike, a small bird that takes out its lack of talons on insects and lizards by crucifying them on thorns or barbed wire before eating them. As we made our way west toward the Smoak camphouse, we passed by a tall pine tree, the location where went from theoretical scientist to experienced bear researcher after catching the first bear of my career.
Tracee Smoak, the wife of Mason Smoak, the pilot who died with Dave Maehr in 2008 while conducting aerial surveys of the black bears in the area, met us at the camphouse. Their three children ran among the pines and clumps of palmetto, chasing each other and squealing.
Even with the tragedy still in the back of my mind, the full circle way of things began to push itself into my thoughts. This is a territory I know and love, and I, like Mason and Dave, take great satisfaction from knowing that it is and will likely always be in good hands. One door may have shut, but another one is opened as the children build their memories of the natural environment that is the Smoak cattle pasture.

























